Tag Archives: crochet

Crocheted Vest for Teddy Bears (Build a Bears, etc) – pattern

It has been a truly long time. No explanation, no excuses. Just — here’s a pattern I made!

These Build a Bears of mine needed a simple school-uniform-type vest. I’m still much better at crochet than knitting, and I couldn’t find something that was quite what I wanted, so here’s what I created.

It’s fairly easy to adjust (the black bear, Baz, is a bit bigger than the other, Simon; and I made his vest a little longer in the body), see the notes in the pattern.

2016 05 30_0016


2016 05 30_0010

crab stitch edging (and vampire teeth)

2016 05 30_0008

ready for adventure

Here’s the pattern!

Crocheted Vest for Teddy Bears (Build a Bears, etc)


  • H hook (5mm)
  • Yarn (I used Yarn Bee “Hint of Silk,” China Silk (red), (bamboo & silk yarn) – used just under one full skein, which is 3 oz/85g,130 yds/119m)
  • Yarn needle, scissors, etc.


Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

  • Ch – chain
  • Sk – skip
  • St – stitch
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Tbl – through back loop
  • LDC – linked double crochet
  • LDC 2tog – linked double crochet 2 together (decrease)
  • Crab stitch edging



  1. One loop on hook.
  2. Insert top to bottom into horizontal bar of previous stitch (or 2nd chain of ch3), yo, draw through. (2 loops on hook.)
  3. Insert hook into next stitch, draw up loop, yo, draw through 2 loops, yo, draw through remaining 2 loops.


LDC 2tog (decrease)

  1. One loop on hook.
  2. Insert top to bottom into horizontal bar of previous stitch, yo, draw through. Two loops on hook.
  3. Insert hook into next stitch, draw up loop. Insert hook into next stitch, draw up loop (4 loops on hook).
  4. YO, draw through two loops, yo, draw through remaining three loops.

(LDC 3tog is similar, but insert hook into an additional stitch in step 2, and draw through three loops at a time in step 4.)


Crab Stitch

At the end of row of sc, do not turn — CH 1, skip the stitch directly to the RIGHT and reverse single crochet (rev SC*) into each SC, ending with a sl  st in the turning chain of the previous row. Fasten off.

*rev SC (worked from left to right): Insert hook in next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull loop through, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.




Adjustments are fairly simple, adding rows in the body, or even starting with a few more rows of ribbing and body stitches.

When adjusting, keep an eye out to match the pattern of alternating right and wrong side rows of LDC.

Figuring out the front: total stitch count, subtract 9 (or 10), divide that by 2. Be sure to put the decreases (after row 2) on the v-neck side.


Bottom Ribbing

Ch 6

1 – Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (5 sc)

2 – Ch 1, turn. Sc tbl across.

Repeat row 2 till approx. 17” (approx 54 rows). Fasten off.



Attach to end, ch 1. Sc evenly to the end. (Approx 54 sc)

Ch 3. LDC in each sc to the end. (This is the right side (RS) of work.)

Repeat previous row till body measures approx.1.5” from top of ribbing. (Approx 4 rows.) 54 st, fasten off, leave long tail for sewing side seam later.



Turn work (match right/wrong sides of stitches)

1 – Sk first 2 sts. Join yarn in next st, ch 3 (counts as first stitch), LDC 21x (22 st)

2 – Ch 3, turn, LDC 2tog, LDC across, LDC 2tog at end (20 st)

3-4 – Ch 3, turn, LDC across



5 – ch 3, turn, LDC 4 times, fasten off (5 st)

Attach yarn with sl st and do the same in the last five st on other side.



1 – sk 5 st from back (other armhole). Ch 3, LDC across, till 3 st from end (22 st)


(decreases rows 3-5 on side of v-neck)

Left front

2 – ch 3, turn, LDC 2tog, LDC 6x, LDC 2tog (9 st)

3 – ch 3, turn, LDC 2tog, LDC 6x, (8 st)

4 – ch 3, turn, LDC across, LDC 3tog (6 st)

5 – ch 3, turn, LDC 2tog, LDC across (5 st)

6 – ch 3, turn, LDC across


Right front

Attach in middle (matching RS/WS of stitches) with sl st

2 – ch 3, turn, LDC 2tog, LDC 6x, LDC 2tog (9 st)

3 – ch 3, turn, LDC 6x, LDC 2tog (8 st)

4 – ch 3, turn, LDC 3tog, LDC across (6 st)

5 –  ch3, turn, LDC across till last 2 st, LDC 2tog (5 st)

6 – ch 3, turn, LDC across


Sew shoulders, and side seam.



1 – Attach yarn at bottom of armhole, ch1, sc evenly around armhole. Sl st to first sc.

2 – Ch 1, crab stitch around.

Repeat for other armhole, and around neckline.

Weave in ends.

Little Fox pattern

ETA 11/30: The ear section in particular is a bit tricky. I am editing the instructions slightly, and will be adding have added a video. If you have more questions or troubleshooting,  please, leave me a comment! (Or, hey, even if you just like it…)

At last, the pattern! It works up quite small – he rests in the palm of your hand. (I’ll try to add a photo to make the scale clear.) I tested it making a pink fox for my daughter – perhaps I will add a pic later. Let me know if there are mistakes, or I need to clarify. Feel free to make many little foxes – and please, I’d love to see photos! – but please do not copy the pattern to your own site – leave a link instead. Also, please do not sell the pattern, nor make them and sell them online. Thanks.

Little Fox
By me! S. J. Montgomery

amigurumi fox

  • 3.0 mm hook
  • Soft acrylic worsted weight yarn, red and a small amount of white
  • small amount of fiberfill
  • 6 mm safety eyes, 7 mm triangle safety nose; or black perle cotton or embroidery thread for embroidering nose and eyes
  • yarn needle

Stitches used:

  • Magic ring
  • inc = increase
  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • f.l. = front loop
  • invdec = invisible decrease
  • four loop bobble (in feet): (Yarn over hook and insert hook into stitch; yo and pull up a loop; yo and pull the yarn through 2 loops) repeat this 3 times into the same stitch – you will have 4 loops on your hook. YO and pull through all 4 loops. Here is a nice video tutorial; this site also has a few pictures.

Please note: normally I suggest, when making amigurumi, alternating the pattern a little to avoid lines, i.e. if the pattern of the round is (1 + inc) around and the next is (2 + inc) around, I would say alternate whether you start with the 1 sc or the inc, so as to avoid a line where all the inc are lined up. HOWEVER, in the head part of this pattern, it is important to follow the instructions so as to get the proper shaping. In the body and tail you may want to try the alternating I talked about above.

Head & Body

1. 4 sc in magic ring
2. inc every stitch (8)
3. sc around (8)
4. 2 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc (11) [insert nose]
5. 2 sc, (1 sc, inc) 3 times, 3 sc (14)
6. inc, 2 sc, (inc, 1 sc) 4 times, 3 sc (19) [place eyes between rounds 5 & 6 where the head widens (opposite your starting st), 6 st apart. You can wait until you make the ears before inserting them.]
7. sc around

Making the ears, they are worked as part of the head. [If you have trouble, look in the comments/ask a question there for help, or try the new video tutorial. Also embedded at the bottom of the post.]

8. 6 sc, (sc into front loop of st above eye, ch 3, skip 1st ch, 2 sc [down chain], sc into f.l. next head st of rnd; turn [work up ear], sc, sl st; turn [work down ear], sl st, sl st into f.l. of next head st) 3 sl st in f.l. of next 3 sts in round; repeat parentheses once, 4 sc
9. sc around (through back loops of ear sections) (19)
10. invdec, 2 sc, invdec, 2 sc, 2 invdec, 2 sc, invdec, sc, invdec [goes one st into next row, move marker for new starting stitch] (12)
11. sc, 2 inc, 7 sc, 3 inc (18)
12. (2 inc, 2 sc) 4 times, 2 sc (26)
13-17.   sc around
18. (2 sc, dec) around, 2 sc (17)
19. sc around
20. (invdec, sc) around, invdec (13)

Stuff head & body firmly.

21. 6 invdec, one st left (7)

Drawstring (using needle, weave yarn tail through front loop of each stitch and pull tight) closed.


Start with white.

1. 3 sc in ring
2. inc around (6)

Switch colors.

3. (1 sc + inc) around (9)
4. (1 sc + inc) around (13)
5-8. sc around
9. (1 sc + invdec) around, 1 sc (9)
10. (1 sc + invdec) around (6)

Stuff lightly.

11. invdec around (3)

Drawstring closed. Leave long tail of yarn, sew to body.

Legs (make 4)

1. 5 sc in ring
2. 2 sc, bobble, 2 sc
3. sc around
4. sc around, attach with sl st to next st.

Tuck tail from magic ring into foot. Leave long tail of yarn, sew to body.

he wants to play {24/366}

worsted Gumball the Kitten pattern (v.2)

Here it is, the long awaited… questions and comments are welcome.

Gumball the Kitten, part deux

Pattern for Gumball the Kitten amigurumi (worsted weight)

(Feel free to make many Gumballs for yourself, family and friends. Please do not sell nor repost the pattern – links back are much appreciated. Thank you.)

Edited 10/09: Itsybitsyspidercrochet was kind enough to post some errata. Here I’m incorporating some, though not all of it. Feel free of course to check her site as well.

worsted weight acrylic yarn
E (3.5mm) hook
animal safety eyes (9 mm & felt, 6mm for mouth) and nose, or floss for embroidering features
fiberfill for stuffing
yarn needle

Gauge: tight enough so the stuffing doesn’t show through

stitches used (US crochet terminology):
This amigurumi is crocheted in the round.
sc = single crochet
hdc = half-double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
inc = increase
dec = decrease
invdec = invisible decrease (tutorial here)
magic ring tutorial here


  1. 6 sc in magic ring
  2. +6 inc every st around (12)
  3. +6 (1 sc + inc) around (18 )
  4. +6 (2 sc + inc) around (24)
  5. +3 (7 sc + inc) around (27)
  6. +3 (8 sc + inc) around (30)
  7. sc in each sc around (30)
  8. sc in each sc around (30)
  9. 4 invdec + 2sc around (18) [edited]
  10. (1 sc + dec) around
  11. dec around

Place eyes, nose and mouth and stuff firmly around round 9 or 10.

Fasten off and drawstring closed.


  1. 6 sc in magic ring
  2. +6 inc every st around (12)
  3. +6 (1 sc + inc) around (18 )
  4. +6 (2 sc + inc) around (24)
  5. +6 (3 sc + inc) around (30)
  6. +3 (9 sc + inc) around (33)
  7. +3 (10 sc + inc) around (36)
  8. +3 (11 sc + inc) around (39)
  9. sc in each sc around
  10. sc in each sc around
  11. -3 (11 sc + invdec) around (36)
  12. -6 (4 sc + invdec) around (30)
  13. -6 (3 sc + invdec) around (24)
  14. -6 (2 sc + invdec) around (18 )

Fasten off with sl st, leaving a tail for sewing.

Front Legs (make 2)

  1. 4 sc in magic ring
  2. +4 inc every st (8 )
  3. +4 (1 sc + inc) around (12) – sc, inc, inc, sc, sc, inc, inc, sc
  4. sc in each sc around
  5. sc in each sc around
  6. -3 (9) – sc, sc, dec, sc, dec, sc, sc, dec, sc
  7. -2 (7)
  8. sc in each sc around

Fasten off with sl st, leaving a tail for sewing.

Back Legs (make 2)

  1. 6 sc in magic ring
  2. inc every st around (12)
  3. (1 sc + inc) around (18 )
  4. sc in each sc around
  5. (2 invdecr + 1 sc) *3, then 1 invdecr + 1 sc (11) [edited]
  6. 3 invdec, sc 5 hdc, sc, finish with sl st, leave tail for sewing on.


  1. 6 sc in magic ring
  2. sc around (6)
  3. sc around, inc 2 st (8 )
  4. sc around
  5. repeat row 4, approximately 9 times (total rows appr. 13)

Fasten off with sl st, leave tail (ha!) for sewing.

Ears (make 2)

  1. 4 sc in ring
  2. (1 sc + inc) around (6)
  3. (inc + 2 sc) around (8)
  4. inc, 2 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, inc (12)

Fasten off with sl st, leaving a tail for sewing.


Nestle the ball of the head into the hole of the body (after stuffing firmly) and sew together. Sew on legs, ears and tail.

Gumball the Third

ETA: The worsted pattern is now up.

People must really like free patterns, ’cause I get a lot of traffic on my Gumball pattern page. I understand that, goodness knows I like free patterns myself. However, I just wasn’t entirely satisfied with my Gumball pattern. Then I wanted to make my sister a Gumball for Christmas. And I love my seester SO much, I decided I was willing to brave the evil yarn again for her.

Unfortunately, the making part didn’t really get started until, well, the plane ride to the east coast on Christmas Eve. And plane rides by oneself with two small children are certainly not conducive to crocheting with difficult yarn. So in the interest of finishing the blasted thing, like, ever, I switched back to worsted. But I DID decide that I was going to rework the unsatisfactory pattern a bit as I went.

Mostly I decided to change the face — I’m not big on the spiral in the middle face, I much prefer the across the horizontal stripes face. So there it is. I also made the tail more curled around, and added back legs (partly at my brother’s urging, and since he was keeping me company during the final making and assembly stages at about 1 am Christmas Eve, I humored him). I do think my original fuzzy-yarn Gumball looks good with no back legs, but worsted is a whole ‘nother story. And I changed the ears; again a case of something that works great with the fuzzy yarn but just isn’t right for the worsted.

All right, enough meta-chatter. Now below is (what else!) a slide show of some pics of the new and improved (IMHO) Gumball the Kitten. Enjoy. If/when I put up the revised pattern, I’ll certainly let you know.

(If you can’t see the slideshow, go to my Gumball set on Flickr.)

handmade for Christmas

Though I support the notion, I didn’t actually take the Handmade Pledge this past year/holiday season (mostly because I have a little boy who is enamored of Ninja Turtles and other superheroes), but ya know, I almost may as well have.

I papered, I crocheted, I even sewed some. Fun fun fun. But instead of telling you about it, I’ll just show you. Watch out people, I have discovered slide.com. And it uses my photos from Flickr instead of making me upload them to yet another location. Joy! Rapture! So, here you may view my holiday creations. (Less a dozen basic drawstring bags made from Christmas fabric for reusably wrapping gifts. It’s so pleasant to just fold up the pretty wrapping “paper” instead of wadding and stuffing and crinkling.)

In case the slide show doesn’t work for you, here’s a link to the photo set on Flickr.

Too bad I didn’t find this pattern for the TMNTs earlier — I might have gone handmade all the way… though it might be a little hard to convince my kiddos that Santa brings crocheted toys when they watch me make them (or something similar) all the time…. I’ll probably end up making these ninja turtles anyway, and a pink one for my daughter, who will be overjoyed.

ETA: I realized I neglected to link to all the lovely free patterns I used. Shame on me!

Little ninja: I used Caron Simply Soft Black and Light Country Peach, 9 mm black eyes. (Stay tuned: I’m making a ninja cat with this pattern… it’ll have blue cat eyes.)

Dragon: Caron Simply Soft Violet, embroidery floss for eyes, Perle cotton for claws.

Blue Totoro: Caron Simply Soft Dark Country Blue, Red Heart Soft Yarn white, black Perle cotton, felt, safety eyes (9mm)

White Totoro: Red Heart Soft Yarn, white, Caron Simply Soft pink, black embroidery floss, felt

Soot gremlins (aka fuzzballs): Bernat Fun Fur, black; googly eyes. I made one large and five small.
I also plan to make some acorns from this free pattern. Though perhaps not with faces.

Tiny airplane: Caron Simply Soft White; Red Heart Soft, Cherry; blue embroidery floss for windows.

Gumball: my pattern of course. I used Caron Simply Soft Brites, Watermelon. Also felt, 9 mm eyes, a flocked 10mm nose, and a 6mm eye for the mouth.

Invisible Decrease Tutorial (invdec)

Merry belated Christmas, my friends. And here’s a little present, at least for my crafty friends.

Since I couldn’t find a drawing or photo online of how to do an invisible decrease (invdec), I decided I might as well put one up myself — it’s not always the right one to use, but it’s such a lovely, useful stitch, especially for amigurumi. Here’s a slide show of it (probably overkill on some of the steps; with all this folderol you’ll think it’s a hard stitch, but it really isn’t, though sometimes it’s a little tight to fit the hook into. Oh well).

For those who for some reason can’t see the slide show, here’s a few of the more relevant photos.

Invdec, step 1

The green arrows just show the sideways “v”s of the top of the stitches. The red arrows point out the front loops where you’ll insert the hook.

Invdec, step 2

Up through the front loop of the first stitch.

Invdec, step 3

Then immediately angle the hook down (while ignoring my abominably torn cuticles) and …

Invdec, step 4

… go up through the front loop of the second stitch …

Invdec, step 5

… and you have three loops on the hook. Yarn over and draw up a loop through the two front loops, then finish as you would a regular single crochet.

Invdec, wrong-side view

This is a view of the wrong side of the crochet. The red arrow points to the back of the invisible decrease (see how there’s a dropped line of yarn, just below where the arrow is pointing? that’s the two back loops from the two stitches you decreased to one), while the green arrow points to the back of the single crochet, for contrast. All this because from the front (which I probably should’ve also taken a shot of, oh well, go try it and see how awesome it looks) it’s well… almost invisible, so if you need to count back to the decrease you may have to look at the back of the work to tell. And this is what you’re looking for.

Well, there it is. I hope it’s all clear and helpful. Any comments or suggestions for improvement are appreciated. (P.S. I did make a video of this. Does anyone want me to put it up?)

Gumball the Kitten – the amigurumi pattern

ETA: This pattern really works best with the crazy polarspun yarn. If you’d like to make one in worsted, I recommend the revised worsted version, found here.

So. Last week I crocheted a Gumball the Kitten. I got so many kind comments here and on my flickr photos about it. Gumball’s creator, Secret Agent Josephine, liked it so much she even did a very kind blog post about it. I was (and still am) honored and thrilled.

I can’t really fully explain my obsession with Gumball. Way back when I first saw it, I was primarily amused by the idea of such an adorable (and worried) -looking kitten taking over the world. Now… well, now I just can’t get enough.

Anyhow, I had requests (okay, mostly one – hi Bethany!) for the pattern. “Amigurumi” as I understand it is a Japanese word for soft toys, crocheted, knit or otherwise, but it usually refers to this form of crochet, mostly single crocheting in the round, of small toys. It’s not that difficult once you get the hang of it, though writing out my first pattern was tricky. Here is how it came out. (This is a really long post… if you want to see just the pattern, it’s at the bottom.)

New additions

I made the pink one first, for my daughter, then my son wanted one too, and for it to be blue! His was the “check and slightly alter the pattern, oops, that was a mistake there, better fix it, okay better now” one. Although they are both past the chewing stage, I figured I would try using safety eyes and noses on theirs. Didn’t like the round nose (really an eye) too much on the pink one, so I ordered some actual noses and used that on the blue.


I tried making a tabby version for my daughter. The back stripes are mostly alright, the face not quite so much.


This is a flower brad. The Pandagirl was the one who said, “Mom, what about the star?” (And no, this version of Gumball is gimpy streamlined, with no back legs.

A Note on Materials
Someone commented on SAJ’s post, linked above, wondering if it was really crochet; they said it looked like bathrobe material. (Now that you mention it, I replied, I have a bathrobe just that color… that I almost never use… hmm…. See the addiction? Beware!) It does look rather completely different than regular worsted yarn amigurumis, as you can see above. It’s all in the yarn, apparently.

I swear, this stuff, the Lion Brand Polarspun that I used to make the original Gumball G., mats up as you knit or crochet it. You could practically cut it and use it as cloth. I have a baby hat of it that really didn’t work out, and a hooded scarf thing I made my daughter that I know won’t fit her right now, and I’d like to frog them (i.e. unravel) and start again or something, but my heart quails at the thought of it. It sticks to itself so badly that it literally takes me two or three times as long to carefully unravel the stitches (hopefully without breaking it) as it did to make them to begin with. (This time ratio is the opposite of a normal yarn, by the way.) In fact, the original Gumball G’s head is stuffed, not with fiberfill, but with the scraps of yarn that I broke or couldn’t unravel at all while making him.

But it sure is soft and plushy.

It would be interesting to try this with other fuzzy-ish yarns, see how it comes out. (You could get a really crazy puffball with fun fur; terry yarns or the like might be really interesting, and not as incredibly frustrating as the Polarspun. Bernat used to make a yarn called Lulu that was similar in texture to it, but not as sticky (owing to it being made of nylon, rather than polyester like Polarspun? perhaps). Regardless, Polarspun yarn has been discontinued — BUT if you want try it out and don’t mind dealing with the headache, they have quite a bit on eBay, search for polarspun. Just don’t say I didn’t warn you! (And yet, even after all my whining here, I’m seriously considering coming up with some other designs, making them from this crazy yarn, and selling them on Etsy. Because I do love the look.)

Disclaimer and Notes on the Pattern
So — the pattern below is more or less how I made the original, but since I wrote it down while making it with worsted weight yarn, it is probably a little different. I’m not entirely happy with the look of the worsted yarn face, and may end up reworking it some more for that type of yarn.

Also on how I wrote the pattern. At the beginning of each row where there are increases or decreases I wrote + or – that number, that’s really just about all you need. But if you’re like me and you like to be told how many stitches to put between each increase/decrease, that’s what the second part in the parentheses is for. (I think I even figured out a mathematical formula for it… but nobody wants to hear about that.) Then the final number in parentheses tells you how many stitches should be in the round when you’re finished.
So “+6 / (2 sc + inc) around (24)” means in this round you increase 6 stitches total, to do so evenly you should do 2 single crochets and one increase (2 single crochets in one stitch) all the way around, and there’ll be 24 stitches total in the round when you’re finished.
Try not to put all your increases or decreases in the same place in each round. All rounds are unjoined, worked in a spiral.

At Last, the Pattern Itself
Feel free to make many Gumballs for yourself, your friends and your family with this pattern. However, please do not sell them, nor the pattern. Thanks.


  • worsted weight yarn (I used Caron Simply Soft Bright, Watermelon and Blue Mint colors; of the Polarspun I used hot pink)
  • size E/3.5mm crochet hook (with the polarspun I used an F hook, it’s a chunkier yarn)
  • locking stitch markers such as these (optional, but OHMYGOSH I can’t believe how much easier they make it, I totally recommend them, especially the kind I linked to, they’re a bit pricey, but lovely and smooth, don’t catch on the yarn like the other, split kind I had…)
  • yarn needle
  • white felt and fabric scissors
  • eyes and nose (as I mentioned before, on the original I used black brads, two regular sized, one mini round, and one mini square, clipped off to make a triangle. On the ones pictured here I used two 9 mm black eyes, a 6mm black eye for the mouth, and a 10 mm triangle nose.)
  • polyfill for stuffing (polypellets and a nylon as well, if you want a more beanbag-ish effect)

Gauge: Gauge is not vitally important, mostly you should just be sure that the stitching is tight so that the stuffing doesn’t show. Use a hook a couple sizes down from the normal size for the yarn you’re using. If you want to be more exact, make a joined-round gauge circle. Mine was a five round circle, using worsted weight yarn, 2 inches in diameter.


sc = single crochet
st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
inc = increase
invdec = invisible decrease, decreasing over 2 stitches (this stitch is FREAKING AWESOME – I’ve never tried it before, and it’s totally cool. I’m trying to find a link online showing it, with no luck. ETA: Link to my tutorial for this stitch. It really is wonderfully invisible. If you want a book that shows this I know the amazing Elisabeth Doherty‘s new book that I’ve mentioned before has it; that’s where I learned it, along with many other wonderful tips. Don’t bother with the invisible decrease if you’re using the polarspun though; just use a regular decrease instead (pulling up a loop in two stitches and crocheting them together as one single crochet). You can also use a regular decrease on the worsted yarn, if you want.)

Here is a link for how to make a magic ring – fabulous technique (though perhaps not possible with the difficult Polarspun yarn; I’ll have to try it again….)



  1. 6 sc in magic ring, pull tight closed
  2. +6 / inc every st around (12)
  3. +6 / (1 sc + inc) around (18)
  4. +6 / (2 sc + inc) around (24)
  5. +3 / (7 sc + inc) around (27)
  6. +3 / (8 sc + inc) around (30)
  7. sc in each sc around (30)
  8. sc in each sc around (30)
  9. -12 / invdec + 6 sc evenly (18)
  10. -3 / (4 sc + invdec) around (15)

Fasten off with sl st, leaving a tail for sewing.


  1. 6 sc in magic ring, pull tight closed
  2. +6 / inc every st around (12)
  3. +6 / (1 sc + inc) around (18)
  4. +6 / (2 sc + inc) around (24)
  5. +6 / (3 sc + inc) around (30)
  6. +3 / (9 sc + inc) around (33)
  7. +3 / (10 sc + inc) around (36)
  8. +3 / (11 sc + inc) around (39)
  9. sc in each sc around
  10. sc in each sc around
  11. -3 / (18 sc + invdec) around (36)
  12. -6 / (4 sc + invdec) around (30)
  13. -6 / (3 sc + invdec) around (24)
  14. -6 / (2 sc + invdec) around (18)
  15. -3 / (4 sc + invdec) around (15)

Fasten off with sl st, leaving a tail for sewing.

Legs (make 2)

  1. 4 sc in magic ring, pull tight closed
  2. +4 / inc every st (8)
  3. +4 / (1 sc + inc) around (12)
  4. sc in each sc around
  5. sc in each sc around
  6. -3 / (9)
  7. -2 / (7)
  8. sc in each sc around

Fasten off with sl st, leaving a tail for sewing.


  1. 6 sc in magic ring, pull tight closed
  2. sc around (6)
  3. sc around, inc 2 st (8)
  4. sc around
  5. repeat row 4, approximately 9 times (total rows appr. 13)

Fasten off with sl st, leaving a tail (ha ha, of yarn) for sewing.


  1. ch 4
  2. sk 1st ch, sc, hdc, trc
  3. ch 1
  4. repeat rows 1 and 2

Fasten off with sl st, leaving a tail for sewing.


First put the face on the head. You might need to use a rattail comb to make a spot for the posts to go in between the stitches. I cut a small square of felt, snipped a tiny opening in the middle, put the eye post through it, then trimmed it around to the right size for the eye patches. (Patches? Or whatever those are.) Place the eyes, nose and mouth and attach them (if you’re using brads you can do this after sewing it all together, if you want).

Stuff the head and the body with polyfill, then whipstitch (i.e. sew them together however you can) the openings together. (My original’s head was fairly lightly stuffed — the worsted yarn ones needed firmer stuffing, I think. However, if you don’t stuff the head TOO firmly, you can kind of pose the face a little, which is fun.)

Place and sew the ears.

It’s your call whether you stuff the very end of the tail or the paws — on the pink one I did, the blue one I didn’t. Position and sew on the legs and tail — if you wish to add the asterisk (I used a mini flower brad) then be sure to take that into account with your tail placement; maybe put it on first.

Finally, take photos of your Gumball and add them to the Flickr pool! Or at least send them to me, I’d love love love to see what people do with this. Any questions, comments, or suggestions are welcome of course.

Three gumballs